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UK=OK
A Bit of What You Fancy
Does You Good
Freaked out? Fried? We all are.
Yet travel needn't be a terror: sometimes nothing's more therapeutic than
swanning around the city where the season's jolly.
Hotels: April Burbage
gives you
the London lowdown |
How can a clock be timeless? Big Ben
not only declares the time. The 13.5 ton Palace of Westminster clock
tower bell evokes the very soul of London. Poor William Shakespeare did
not have the good fortune to hear Big Ben (The bell's first public chime
sounded n 31 May, 1859), the music of Shakespeare certainly is in Big
Ben's tones -- along with Newton's clarity, Churchill's will,
Princess Diana's compassion and the dreams, thoughts, passions wishes and
essence of millions of Londoners, present and past. Have a listen. |
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H20 Heaven
Kensington Close Hotel
Wrights Lane Kensington W8 5 SP
Tel 020 7368 4005 Fax 020 7938 4331
Great beds, these. You’ll need a great bed after Virgin’s
surprising new economy ’Iron Maiden’, Procrustian cramped
seating---that and a chiropractor, With fewer Americans flying since
September 11th, we realise that many flight services have had
to be compacted: Virgin often have deployed the smaller planes in their
fleet. But these days Virgin’s economy seats hurt you almost as much as
that much hyped, much despised Singapore Airlines. Try for the bulkhead
seats.
We’re fond of this small, immaculate hotel, tucked just round the
corner from the tube in High St Ken, a neighbourhood that women especially
like, just because it’s so pretty, not at all masculine or grubby like
so many of London’s hotel neighborhoods. With coffee bars, supermarkets,
Marks and Spencers, Smiths and buses to Knightsbridge shopping, it’s
convenient but gentle.
This Posthouse is a modest and modern hotel: we keep returning here
because despite the tiny size of the rooms, they balance the smallish
hotel room with impeccably built in features, such making your own tea
service, niches for the hair dryer, etc. Everything works and fits
pleasingly. This is a cushy little space capsule.
The only snag is the bathroom light problem. When you travel a lot, it
is a comfort to have some way to remember where you are when you are
sleepily shuffling to the loo. Malheureusement, the bathroom light here
hits you right in the eyeball as you lie abed, even if you keep the loo
door open even a crack. Otherwise, they have thought of everything …well,
everything but that blasted light.
And we ‘re wild about the hotel’s Spirit Health Club, and
wonderful, wonderful swimming pool, free to guests. (open 6:30 am to 10 pm
most days). The sauna hot as hell, the pool is sparkling and warm. The
steam room is large, fabulous and fragrant with lung clearing herbs. It’s
blessed with an excellent staff, and you can sneak to the health club
direct from your room via the lift without hassles. All in all, this is
the best deal we found in London. TIP: If you’re doing an extended
London stay, you might want to know about this short term Spriti Health
Club memberships. The off peak single rate for three months is £181 as of
this writing---unbelievable value!
There’s more than one restaurant in the hotel, too. and if you’re too tired to go
out searching for curries, they do serve up a few...though how scrumptious
they are, must wait for our review, which is imminent.
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The Dance of the Seven Dials
Radisson Edwardian Mountbatten Hotel
20 Monmouth Street, Covent Garden London, WC2 9HD England
Phone: (0)20 7836 4300 Fax: (0)207 240 3540
(800) 333-3333 US
(0800) 37 4411 UK
‘Look,‘ the bellman said, ‘the moon is right over the Seven
Dials.’
The bellman was looking through the window of the fifth floor suite
in the Radisson Edwardian Mountbatten Hotel. And bellman was right.
Tucked away in Covent Garden, this quiet four-star deluxe hotel looks
out on the bright lights of the West End theaters. The silver half-moon
looked quite at home. If you look beyond the chimneys and rooftops that
evoke Peter Pan, you can see the London Eye wheeling in the distance,
guarding the legendary, looping. Thames. This enormous Ferris wheel,
which was erected to celebrate London’s Millennium celebrations,
smiles and flashes at nearby Big Ben with bluish blinks.
Back to the Seven Dials. Stories abound as to how this London
landmark got its name. Currently, we like the one that notes that the
seven catty-corner corners which meet have buildings that are blessed
with clocks. It is an absolute symphony of roman numerals. In addition
there is that Seven Dials pillar which pays its respects to the seven
dials. It too is a time piece, at least during the few hours of daylight
allowed by London’s latitude 51N31.
In order to understand the Mountbatten (if understanding hotels is
part of how you process the world) it helps to understand the Radisson
Edwardian Hotels. The privately-owned chain consists of 10 UK hotels
(nine in London, one at Heathrow Airport) and apparently more on the
way. Next to open will be hotels in Birmingham and Manchester. The
Birmingham property, the Baskerville House is set to open in the fall of
2003. as 221-room luxury hotel.
The owner, the tycoon with good taste Jasminder Singh, is an
accountant by training; he has been a London hotelier since 1977. The
chain’s name suggests a slavish desire to reproduce an anatomically
correct replica of the Edwardian era. This proves not to be the case:
the prevailing philosophy is much more intelligent. The idea is to
capture and maintain the spirit of that era —
specifically an atmosphere of luxury and opulence —
while happily using the best contemporary design ideas. Calm colors,
sometimes joyfully startling shapes and materials blend throughout the
Mountbatten.
And how suite the sitting room is: plump pillows and a comfy sofa,
upholstered in a bang-on shade of Edwardian chartreuse… the rich
lustre of the angled walls in a lovely, cosseting cerulean blue… huge
windows which actually open and look out in different directions…George
Melly on the Bose wave radio…who couldn’t get mellow here, very
fast? We did.
Room service? Yes, please. The eats: eggs, mushrooms, grilled tomato,
yogurt, fruit, juice, toast and tea. We liked snorking up the full
English breakfasts --- we prefer vegetarian style --- room service
shoots up to the rooms. We sat at the lovely antique table in the angled
niche between two windows and engaged in commentary and delighted
speculation about the people milling about below, off to work in Covent
Garden.
And the well-appointed bedroom was not simply the obligatory other
room but a soft
haven made for sleeping and lounging.
Staff at the Mountbatten were extremely helpful and friendly and
professional. Not that we had many problems to pose to them.
When staying at the Mountbatten, don’t forget to set your dial for
a drink at the hotel’s popular bar, The Dial An assortment of
comfortable sofas, easy chairs and the posture-flattering, comfortable
straight back chairs invite you to sit down. Bold white inch-thick
candles lend a bit of atmosphere. Floor to ceiling windows face the
street and look out at theater district night life. Who are those people
in dress attire? Oh they’re coming in here. The Dial’s smart
location, connection to the Mountbatten and inviting décor bring a
highly democratic but sedate bunch to the joint. You have your actors
and luvvies and hangers-on who have just strutted and sweated their hour
or so on stage as well as young (but old enough to drink) men and women
on dates as well as locals out for a breath of air, diplomats,
industrialists, and yes tourists from all over the world, all mixing in.
The Dial is a wonderful spot from which to view the theatrical
streets.
Verdict: Very comfy, great nabe, extremely nice. Would definitely do
it again.
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In Bloomin’ Bloomsbury:
Radisson Edwardian Kenilworth Hotel
97 Great Russell Street London, WC1B 3BL England
Phone: + 44 (0)20 7637 3477
Fax: + 44 (0)20 7631 3133
Toll Free: (800) 333-3333 US
Toll Free: (0800) 37 4411 UK
The Kenilworth, located in the Bloomsbury section, is another design
jewel in the Edwardian Radisson collection. It’s only a block or so
away from the British Museum, and not far from the Mountbatten, if you
got hooked on pulling actors or actresses at the Dial bar. (And while
the district is steeped in atmosphere and tradition, the Kenilworth
rooms manage to be both really modern and comfortable. .
Just about everything has a designer label or at least designer mind
behind it. A dropped ceiling with recessed lights transforms a grey wall
to a subtle and nuanced (like Brendan Fraser’s performance) setting.
The persistent and ubiquitous touches do not scream. They delight, charm
and give comfort: leather covered cubical night stands, Philip Starck
faucets, glass desks in some rooms. Cheery wood desks in others.
We are told that in course of redoing the place a few years ago, the
design team led by Michael Attenborough and Mrs. Singh actively sought
input from the staff. For example, housekeepers explained how duvets
make the make the task of making the bed just right smarter, quicker,
easier.
Whatever the journey, the beauty of it is that you find yourself
staying in an environment that is modern without being edgily
intimidating. Creative original art from around the world seems to be
everywhere — in the lobby, the
rooms, the restaurants, the corridors. You can work calmly and
productively or you can just relax and hang out.
TIP: Go out on the lobby head toward the gents and ladies but stop
at the business centre. That’s where you will find three beautiful
computers waiting for you and your e-mail. No need to dial up just click
on the MSN icon and a web window opens. From there it’s a hop, skip
and url to your messages. So far no charge.
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Days of Tory Glory
Athenaeum Hotel and Apartments
116 Piccadilly, London W.1 J 7BJ
Tel 011 44 020 7499 3464
Fax 011 44 020 7493 1860
The Athenaeum is a magnet for visiting film and theatre stars. Recent
guests have included John Malkovitch, Samuel Jackson, Simply Red, Dionne
Warwick, Russell Crowe, Meg Ryan, Linda Gray, Michael Douglas and Larry
Hagman. Part of the Hollywood hangout mystique is certainly because the
J. Arthur Rank Organization once owned the property. Two other factors
are probably more important. First of all, the Athenaeum delivers
service. Staffers quote executive director Sally Bulloch when she says
“The answer to every question is yes.”. Also it offers a comfortable
and comforting sense of privacy that whispers discretion. Even to the
extent of offering the use of secret hallways that afford private entree
and egress for the celeb who does not wish to be haunted by paparazzi.
This privacy was offered to Denis and Margaret Thatcher when they
dallied in the Athenaeum 9th floor 750 pound a night
penthouse for 9 weeks. They chose instead to eat in the public areas and
walk through the front door and the Brits loved it.
Travelers USA Notebook stayed in an apartment. These are special and
spacious and are round the corner from the main hotel building. The
apartments are townhouse suites, two per floor, on Down Street, the side
street adjoining the hotel proper. (Quite proper, as a matter of fact.
This is Mayfair after all.). Each suite has an oversized living room;
ample bedroom; contemporary dark green, tiled kitchen (complete with
stove, oven, refrigerator, sink, dishes, tableware, washer dryer
combination but alas, no microwave) and a lovely loo. There’s ample
closet space. But what’s with the twin beds in the bedrooms? They were
tucked in so smartly that it was hard to kick free and play footsie
footsie. It made us respect Russell Crowe more, but still. There are
twin beds in so many of the A’s rooms, pushed together to make one
large bed, that we warn you: if you are a big shot and planning a big
juicy secret louche love affair, please phone ahead so the staff can put
in a queen size for your visit, or it’s twins for you, duckies!
The central theme of our apartment’s décor might be called
patterns. Every surface, fabric, object bears a discernable pattern —
powerfully striped green, maroon and cream curtains; beige wallpaper
showing regalia separated diamonds, tan and brown floral carpet; bright
Princess Anne red rose in a green diamond wreath on an ivory background
straight back chairs, rose on burgundy sofa and arm chair red and gold
orchids on forest green background chairs. The plush furniture has
fringes and the straight backs have studs.
Now here’s the thing. One of us loved the apartment and one of us
hated it. One of us found solace in the plush, traditional décor. The
other didn’t -- if we are to attach any credence to the
description, “arsenic tones from 1910 and poison and pus greens and
brown fringed Philadelphia unsuccessful whorehouse draperies.” (A
possible exception to the general décor doldrums might be apartment #13
with its black ceilings and leopard upholstery. Known as the “Wild
Room,” it is often used by privacy seekers.) Admittedly there was a
bit of discombobulation with trying to work out the tricky television
remote controls, coded washer/dryer and stove instructions that didn’t
help. And then there were the visible outlets for old English electrical
plugs that no longer existed and the hard to find outlets for the more
popular plugs of the day. But after a few days crawling around on all
fours, looking for the American outlet, which, it is claimed, is in
every room, and giving up, it did all seem quite mellow. After all, it
is a lovely feeling to have one’s own apartment in London’s Mayfair,
and to have an oven in which to cook all those delicious Marks and
Spencers frozen meals we often long to try as tourists but cannot bring
home on the airplane. There is even a box of laundry powder for you by
the washer. To have a discreet staff bring you room service if you are
promoting a book and having a series of interviewers traipsing in and
out, or having a little orgy---well, as Edward R. Murrow would say,’This---is
London’.
The Athenaeum is the perfect spot to stay if you’re into Tory glory
and if extreme privacy does not feel like isolation. Whether a guest or
not, do drop in on the clubby intimate Whisky Bar. Its menu of at
least 100 different single malts is said to be the largest selection of
whiskies in London. The barkeep pours with a lovely sense of solemn
ceremony.
TIP: For international calls, don’t dial the AT&T number
because you don’t get an AT&T operator. Instead, accomplish
your goal by just dialing “130.”
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Travelers Notebook
News
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Let USA Travelers Notebook
reporters share their insecurities with you about London. It’s a
bathroom/loo kind of thing.
All London hotel bathtubs seem to have high sides. Climbing into the tub
is not just a figure of speech. And there are all those marble surfaces
that get so slick when wet. Traveler gets woozy when he/she contemplates a
familiar tendency toward awkwardness. What if he fell, he wondered. What
if she dropped her compact and it shattered, she fretted. What if he hit
his head or chipped his elbow or fell on his jaw and broke one of his
crowns. Ooo. Uggh. Horrors. So do be careful when entering a London
bathroom -- if not for your own sake then for Traveler’s peace of mind. |
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